At South Cypress, we love being a resource for the commercial interior design community. Here are some of the most common questions we hear from designers about wood flooring.
Are engineered wood floors real wood?
Yes! All of the engineered hardwood floors we sell are real wood from top to bottom. They’re manufactured in layers to increase the stability of the product. Engineered wood floors are far less likely to cup or warp due to moisture and temperature fluctuations, which makes them much more tolerant of being glued down. We recommend engineered wood floors for commercial spaces with concrete subfloors.
Can engineered wood flooring be refinished?
Yes! Engineered wood flooring can be refinished multiple times, as long as the wear layer is thick enough. Sanding and refinishing typically removes about 1 mm of material. To estimate how many times a floor can be refinished, subtract 1 from the thickness of the wear layer (in mm). For example, a product with a 4 mm wear layer can usually be refinished at least 3 times. For long-term flexibility, we recommend products with at least a 2.5 mm wear layer.
Can I glue down a wood floor?
Always follow the wood flooring manufacturer’s recommendations when choosing an installation method. Most manufacturers approve gluing down engineered hardwood flooring. Some engineered floors have a locking mechanism (similar to floating LVT, but stronger and more robust). For those, we recommend floating over a high-quality underlayment since they’re designed that way.
Gluing down solid hardwood is possible, but it’s far less forgiving of fluctuations in humidity, moisture, and temperature. If you’re considering it, confirm that both the wood manufacturer and adhesive manufacturer approve the method for their specific products. Acclimate the flooring properly and ensure stable environmental conditions before, during, and after installation.
For most commercial spaces, engineered hardwood is the better option for glue-down installations due to its dimensional stability.
Can this wood floor be installed in a herringbone pattern?
Designers love creating patterns like herringbone or chevron with wood flooring. The key is selecting the right collection.
Most hardwood comes in random-length planks, which allows manufacturers to maximize the lumber yield. While efficient, it means installers have to cut boards to fixed lengths on site for patterns — a labor-intensive and costly process.
We recommend choosing a collection that comes pre-cut in a pattern such as herringbone or chevron. While the material cost is higher, it reduces labor significantly and is often the most cost-effective way to achieve a patterned installation.
Should I choose white oak or red oak?
Both are excellent choices and have been widely used for centuries. White oak is slightly harder and has less pink coloration. Red oak is usually more readily available and cost-effective. Once a darker stain is applied, the color difference is often hard to notice.
What’s the difference between solid and engineered wood flooring?
Solid wood is one solid piece of wood from top to bottom. Engineered wood is also real wood but built in layers.
- Most solid wood comes unfinished and must be stained on site.
- Most engineered hardwood is prefinished at the factory.
- Engineered wood is much more dimensionally stable, making it less likely to cup or warp.
- It can also be manufactured in wider planks.
For commercial projects, we recommend engineered hardwood 99.9% of the time because it can be glued down to concrete subfloors. With a 3 mm+ wear layer, there’s no downside compared to solid wood.
How thick of a wear layer do you recommend for commercial spaces?
We recommend a wear layer of at least 3-4 mm. This allows multiple refinishes and provides enough material for repairs if the floor is dented.
Going thicker than 4 mm can cause the board to warp, which is why even our ¾” engineered products don’t exceed that. A 4 mm wear layer is more than enough for long-term performance without compromising stability.
How long should wood flooring acclimate before installation?
It’s very important that wood flooring acclimate to its environment prior to installation. This means allowing the moisture content of the wood to reach equilibrium with the environment where it will be installed. Flooring should only be delivered to the jobsite once the HVAC is operating and temperature and humidity are maintained at occupancy levels.
Acclimation should be verified by moisture testing both the wood flooring and the subfloor. The difference in moisture content should not exceed 4% for strip flooring or 2% for planks 3" or wider.
Many wood flooring products are wrapped in plastic to protect them from moisture swings during storage and transport. For acclimation to begin, the boxes and plastic must be opened. Remember, acclimation is more about moisture and humidity than temperature.
Is it okay to install wood flooring before the HVAC system is running?
No. The HVAC system must be running for at least 5 days before the flooring is delivered. It should continue to run before, during, and indefinitely after acclimation and installation. A temporary HVAC system may be used, but only if environmental conditions remain consistent when switching to the permanent system.
How flat should the subfloor be prior to installation?
The subfloor should be flat within 1/8" over 6 ft. or 3/16" over 10 ft., regardless of whether the wood is glued, nailed, or floated. For concrete subfloors, high spots should be ground down and low spots filled with self-leveling compound.
Is wood flooring more environmentally friendly than other types of flooring?
Yes. Wood flooring is one of the most sustainable materials in the built environment.
Consider its life cycle: for 40–60 years before harvesting, the wood is a tree improving air quality and supporting its local ecosystem.
Once installed, wood flooring lasts for decades because it can be refinished instead of replaced. Damage can be repaired and the floor can adapt to changing design trends. This real-world, practical longevity makes it one of the most eco-friendly flooring options available today.
What installation method do you recommend for engineered hardwood?
We recommend gluing down engineered hardwood with an adhesive that also serves as a moisture barrier, unless the manufacturer specifies otherwise. Always follow manufacturer guidelines.
Should we use a moisture barrier?
Yes. A moisture barrier is essential to protect wood flooring from slab moisture. This is often achieved with a moisture-barrier adhesive.
Even with a barrier, the slab must be fully cured and dry before installation. Ignoring moisture issues can cause major problems down the road.
Does the wood need to be stained on site?
Prefinished wood flooring has stain and finish applied at the factory, so no finishing is required on site.
Unfinished wood must be sanded, stained, and finished after installation.
In most cases, solid wood is unfinished and engineered wood is prefinished, though it varies by manufacturer.
For commercial spaces, we typically recommend prefinished wood for its durability and consistent color.
What is the best way to clean a wood floor?
- Day-to-day: Vacuum or use a dry dust mop. Make sure the vacuum’s beater bar is off to avoid scratches.
- Spot cleaning: Use a damp cloth with water and dry immediately.
- Cleaning products: Use only what the manufacturer recommends. Many “wood floor cleaners” leave residue. A quick test: wipe the product on a clean pane of glass. If it leaves residue, it will on the floor, too.
Avoid steam mops or excess water, which can cause cupping. Also avoid household furniture cleaners — they make floors slick and leave buildup.
For prevention, place walk-off mats at entrances to capture dirt. Use breathable rugs that are safe for wood flooring.
My wood floor changed colors. What happened?
Wood naturally changes color over time due to UV light exposure and oxidation. This happens faster in rooms with large, south-facing windows and is most noticeable shortly after installation.
If possible, wait a month or two before placing rugs. If you remove a rug later and see color variation, the exposed areas usually even out over time.